In this, the third instalment, we (Ed, Kevin, Koen and I) make our way to the West coast of France and hug the coast, clock up another 310 miles and start to look to Spain. We start this part of the adventure about 5miles (8km), off course, due to the originally planned campsite for end of day four having been closed…
Day five – La Roche Sur Yon (Aubigny-Les Clouzeaux) to Rochefort – (80miles / 125km, 350m ascent) – Firstly, the usual morning routine (ablutions, food, decamp) and then we get out the map to work out what’s the best way back onto the planned route. It was basically a choice to either cycle back to the originally intended campsite or “cut across”. Cutting across would save a few miles, and this day was already going to be the longest so far. We cut across.
To cut across we used phone navigation. This avoids the Garmin’s sometimes suspicious routing algorithms that can take you down some odd tracks. Although the route we ended up going had its off-road moments anyway! After about 8 miles (12km) or so, the Garmin pinged “Course Found” and we were back on route.
We decided to stop at Lucon for the morning’s coffee break. Several different locals gave us less than useful guidance, and we missed the “local” boulangerie/patisserie and ended up on the East side of town’s main road that’s peppered with light industry, offices, homes and retail stores and about 3km off course. Finally, we came across a “Roger Sicard”, which is effectively a boulangère and patisserie combined with a café. There was a very good selection so we all bought a few extras for later.
The sky was getting pretty blue, so we put on a bit more sun screen, although I usually slap on the protection as part of the morning routine, unless the day starts with driving rain. I swear by P20, it lasts 10 hours and is sweat resistant.
Coffee break over and off again. We could have reduced the mileage for the day, as we had a choice to avoid the coastal town of La Rochelle. It was increasingly hot and there was only 350m of ascent, so to La Rochelle we went. Good decision. La Rochelle is really picturesque and had a good atmosphere.
After lunch, and in hot conditions, it was only another 25 miles (40km) or so to the campsite. This took us along more some of the coast before diving slightly inland to Rochefort and to Camping Municipal Le Rayonnement. The campsite was pretty full, so we had a slightly odd set of pitches on the top of a – not so wide – embankment (which was part of the old fort’s defences).
After we had setup and freshened up, we headed on foot into the town, finding various eating options, but settling for La Brasserie des Demoiselles in a nice little square.
Day Six – Rochefort to Hourtin – (80miles / 125km, 289m ascent) – the day started with a short ride down to the River Charente and across on an old transporter bridge. Costing just a few Euros and it saved quite few miles compared to the main bridge. Weather wise, it was already getting pretty warm.
At about 30 miles (50km) we entered the town of Royan, after a little Garmin fun (I had missed some peculiar off-road section), we arrived at the ferry to cross the estuary of the Dordogne (and Garone) rivers. There were at least 30 cyclists in addition to the motorised vehicles. We had a little light refreshment as we crossed, and also some shade, given the ever-bluer sky and increasing heat.
We departed and after about a mile we joined the traffic free cycle route. The terrain was now very different to the rolling hills of previous days. Now, we were closely following (or on) heavily tree lined old disused railway lines. And the earth now gave way to sand. For a while the path meandered, and became skateparkesque, which were fun for a while but sapped the energy as momentum was lost and needed to be regained.
By the town of Soulac-sur-Mer the route was on the coast. A lovely town, which quite a few bikers as well as us had also discovered. We went inland to the main part of the town, finally settling at Oceanvibes Café for lunch. And, given it was a very hot day by now, we settled for light snacks and plenty of drink.
It was a late lunch, and there was still another 30 (50km) of the 80 miles (125km) still left to cover. Fortunately, much of it was going to be traffic free and flat as a pancake. Although, much of the route was through the middle of firebreaks for this heavily forested (and in June very dry) area. This meant the paths were very very straight. The longest (for this day at least) being 5 miles (8km)! Some of the route did go along the side of the roads, occasionally swapping from one side of the road to the other. And we had the joy of the (same) bikers whizzing up and down on their customised steeds.
Towards the end of the route, there was a (nice) little kicker hill to get over. In front, there was a small family, on their heavy looking mountain bikes, ambling along. I wondered how they were going to cope with the hill, there was no footpath alongside to hop onto. Well, you guessed it. Heavy, but with added electrical assistance – what hill!
A few miles later and we rolled into Camping Les Ourmes Hourtin. Still hot, so making camp was a little more sweaty than usual. And, given the long day, we were very thankful the campsite had a restaurant… another good meal, finished off with a well-deserved banana split.
Day Seven – Hourtin to Biscarrosse – (80miles / 125km, 250m ascent) – we left the campsite earlier than usual, so we could cycle a few miles when it wasn’t so warm. It only took a mile or so to be back on to another traffic free cycle path.
The first straight section was 7 miles long (11km), a few degrees change in direction another 7 miles (but a small kink to go around a farm), another small change and another 8 miles straight (13km), and another little change and a final 5 miles (8km) straight.
Looking down these straights was a master class in perspective. You simply couldn’t see the end of the path which was dead straight ahead. I do like variation in my cycling, so the terrain being flat for so long was bad enough. But the straightness and minimal variation of the surroundings was a little mind numbing. I don’t usually cycle with a headset so I can hear my surroundings, but music would have been great distraction along these straights. Still the path was wide and so we formed a mini pursuit team and kept a good pace. Koen, truly earned his title of the ‘Belgian bulldozer’, as he was on the front for many of these (straight) miles.
We were on the lookout for supplies, and just off the trail in Andernos-les-Bains, was an open Casino supermarket. Having stocked up, downed a few snacks, we continued onwards to Biganos. My fellow cyclists were in need of caffeine, and we happened across the Sunday market near to the Mairie (Mayor’s office). The market had a sort of bar – a cool drink for me and we also grabbed shade.
After this quick break, and another 14 miles (22km), just passed Ninots, we see the “Dune du Pilat”. Initially, it’s a bit of a double take. Amazing view, and from the 3-4miles (4.5-6.5km) away you can see the little dots (of people) moving on top of the dune.
We cycled past the BIG dune, the terrain had had become a little lumpy (in fact it has been lumpy since Ninots). The route seemed to be moving away from the coast and the beach. However, a few miles later it headed back to the coast, and our stomachs decided it was finally lunchtime.
We pushed our bikes up a dune, and locked them all up. Then onto the beach, lunch, swim (for some), as well as trying to ignore the naked middle-aged man peacocking about – well it did turn out to be some form of nudist beach. After a little Sun, it was time for the final 25 miles (40 km) or so to the campsite.
Having got to the end of the cycle path we headed East and inland through Ispe and Navarrosse – lots of camping and families having fun, and into Biscarrosse and Camping Les Petits Écureuils. A little off the beaten track of the more main stream campsites, so it was nice and quiet, which is our preference. It had a pool and jacuzzi. Which was great after another hard day in the saddle.
Even though we had another 80+ miles, after freshening up, we managed to cycle into the town centre (remembering to take our lights). It was a choice between a pizza take-away or sit-down Thai, which was not so far off closing. Thai it was, and putting in a quick order.
Day Eight – Biscarrosse to Vieux Boucau les Bains – (70 miles / 112km, 350m ascent) – again starting a little early, it took just a couple of miles to reach the traffic free path. It runs parallel to the road so not quite as countryfied as previous days. After 7 miles (11km) we head West and back towards the coast. Some ruffled feathers from one car passenger when we used the road rather than the somewhat bumpy cycle path.
After a café stop, and 28 miles (45km) we were back to hugging the coast. With a supply stop, we pushed on and as the hunger pangs really kicked in, we came off the trail and headed to the beach at Saint Girons Plage. Again, we pushed the bicycles up a sand bank. We locked them up where they could just be seen from the beach and headed down. After a decent lunch, a swim again for some, it was back to the cycle path for the last 20 miles (32km) or so.
Coming off the cycle path, it was only about a mile (1.5km) to Camping Municipal Les Sablères. With just a big dune between us and the sea, the pitch was topped with sand, but with earth not too far below. Given the wind, definitely a day to use my long tent pegs. A couple of attempts at setting the tent up due to the wind and not orienting the tent quite so well the first time, before freshening up.
Once we had all done our own thing, we took a walk over the dune, and along the beach. Then, into town in search of a restaurant. Having twice walked round all the options the stomachs stopped our procrastination and to Restaurant Le Marinero and another very good meal.
….Next time, just a little further down the coast before heading inland and to the foothills of the Pyrenees, and into Spain.