In this, the fourth instalment, we (Ed, Kevin, Koen and I) go a little further south along the west coast of France before heading south east towards and over the foothills of the Pyrenees, then north and to the northern coast of Spain…
Day 9 Vieux Boucau les Bains to Gahardou – (55 miles / 90km, 550m ascent) – usual morning camping routine, but with special attention to shaking the inner tent to remove as much of the sand that had crept in. Popped over to the local stores for some supplies and we were off. We quickly joined back onto the traffic free cycle route and made our way to Bayonne. We stopped for a coffee break at Bar Remy (pretty average), then took a little wander around the town. At the Porte d’Espagne there was Le Tour type bunting and people milling about which caught our eye. We stopped, locked up and took a look. It was a small exhibition of photographs and cycle jerseys from the Tour of years gone by. Then, back on the saddle, to start to slowly make an ascent into the Pyrenees!
We stopped at Ustaritz for lunch using the supplies we had brought, before heading to Itaxassou, and with a right turn we closely followed the river Nive and started to find some more severe gradients, but with increasingly picturesque scenery.
Our intended campsite, Lekumberry Pierre, was naturally part way up a hill. Ten minutes of climbing (and a little descending) and we arrived. It was a basic campsite, grass not recently mowed – though some sheep tried to help with that the following day. There were several showers, toilets and running water, but that was about it.
There was one other tent whose occupant returned later. He gave us a handy tip on a local restaurant.
Having refreshed ourselves we set off for the restaurant. It was closed, so the tip was not so handy! There was a hotel close by, which turned out only to be serving to hotel guests and it was now getting late for a small village. Fortunately, it was not quite 1930, the time I had previously checked a local E. Leclerc supermarket was scheduled to close. So, a rather quick cycle and we just about made it. Provisions selected and purchased, including some puds, and back up to the campsite. In a way, it was lucky we weren’t cycling up the hill on a full stomach.
I applied some extra “go away biting insect cream” and onto a little cooking, or rather warming up of soup (thanks to Ed and his stove).
Day 10 – Gahardou to Pamplona – (48 miles / 75km, 1093m ascent) – the morning started with a hot chocolate and some sweet things. Using Ed’s stove (I carry the more comprehensive bicycle toolkit), I boiled water to add to my special hot chocolate mix – a combination of creamy milk powder, chocolate powder, cornflour, sugar and a smidge of chili powder. And for special treat I had some optional vanilla powder too.
Having decamped, it was down the hill, back to the L. Eclerc for provisions for the day. Food safely stowed, we were off, for what was basically a 25 mile (40km) uphill ride before lunch. A café stop at a Restaurant Pierre Oteiza Les Aldudes and then onwards and up. The Garmin had routed us off the main road here and there, which had meant some steeper ascents, so given the main road was pretty quiet we ignored the minor diversions.
At the French/Spanish border there was a (permanently?) closed petrol station with a horse and pony standing there. Possibly getting some shade from the earlier Sun or getting ready for their siesta. We continued on for a further five miles (8km) to the pinnacle, at 912 metres, and then descended for a short while before stopping at a handy patch of ground with a fabulous view and for lunch.
Post lunch and various photos, it was essentially a 20 mile (32km) descent towards Pamplona. Our campsite for the evening, Camping Ezcaba was outside of the city, but fortunately on the North side. This one we had pre-booked just in case (given there were few around), although it turned out to be only partly full. A few miles before getting to the campsite, we found ourselves on a busy main road. We had got split up a little, Kevin, Ed and I turned onto a quieter road. Koen was somewhat behind, and in fact walking. We had come a slight gradient, perhaps that and the heat had got the better of him. However, it turned out to be a 7.5cm (3 inch) piece of metal getting the better of Koen’s rear tyre to be the root cause. We took refuge under the shade of some trees to mend the puncture, and needed to apply a tyre block (from my toolkit) given the big gash in the tyre. Fully inflated again, thanks to the trusty Lezyne mini track pump, and off we set in the heat to the campsite (which had a short uphill ramp to get to).
Post ice cream and fizzy drink, with the Sun beaming down, time to pitch the tent. The ground was quite hard, so a little extra effort was needed getting the pegs in. We also needed to account for a slope, so pitching to ensure heads were higher than feet. Next to us was a local lady giving an open-air massage to a fellow camper. This was all above board, and after nine days of solid riding, it was tempting. However, not time, as the plan was to cycle into Pamplona centre for food as well as take in the city’s sights.
A 6 mile (10km) mainly traffic free path led us into the centre and then a short uphill section on cobbles brought us to the old city. After some photos, we settled on a restaurant in the Plaza de Castillo –one of the more touristy areas, and where our stomachs influenced the choice. I think it was Bar Babiera, although could have been an adjacent restaurant. My buddies chose Paella whilst I chose chicken with rice. I lucked out, the others did not.
On our way back to the campsite we went via the bullring. I am not a fan of such sports, but was interested to see what the building looked like. I thought I was going to see some magnificent architecture to invite you in, using stone or even wood. Nope, just a big round slab of concrete.
So, mileage ended up being close to the average at 60miles (100km).
Day 11 Pamplona to Zarautz – (80 miles / 120km, 1500m ascent) – well that was the plan anyway. This was the day, or the route, that I was most concerned about. I had found, what I thought, was a great traffic free route on an old railway path. It was mostly downhill, to San Sebastian, the majority of the climbing appeared to be at the start and then at the end getting over to Zarautz. I had used Google Street view to see what the surface of the off-road parts looked like, and they looked okay for our touring bikes.
Off we set, and a few miles in we get to the first part of the offroad- which was initially not too bad but it degraded as we proceeded. We then went on some tarmacked roads which weren’t too busy. Then a choice between busy roads and a path. We chose the path which again was not too bad, but going was slow. We came off the trail at Sarasate Truck Stop for a “coffee” stop. I received a strange look for ordering cheesecake at 10.30 in the morning, fair enough, I guess.
We continued on the road… we were stopped by Police as one us was not wearing their helmet (illegal outside of urban areas in Spain)… and onto Lekunberri. We stopped here for supplies at an Aliprox mini supermarket. About 2 miles later we left the road and onto the disused railway. The first part was one of many tunnels that we would be going through on our descent towards to the North coast. The first tunnel was the longest at 2 miles (3.2 km). The first one was lit and had a relatively good surface. This was note true for the other, many, tunnels.
There were a scattering of other cyclists coming up the trail, some were cycling, others pushing their bikes. They had a long way to go!
Koen suffered another puncture, so we stopped and repaired that, and then onwards, stopping in Leitza, where there some convenient seats next to the trail, to sit and luncheon. After a shorter lunch, we pressed on, as progress was much slower than usual. Koen suffered another puncture which, again the back wheel and we put this down to a combination of trail conditions, and all pannier and body weight on the rear wheel.
The trail took us into more rural, woodier, damper but beautiful areas. The path had an increasingly stony and rocky surface. There were a few short sharp drops, and became more “technical”. Ed had a slow-motion fall onto his knee. Initially painful, and possibly show stopping, but once on the bike and cranking away, fortunately it was not an issue.
We got to the end of the off-road part at Liezotz Auzia car park. There should have been more off-road, but the next tunnel was closed. Koen reported yet another puncture. No one had the right tube, so it was a case of needing to patch it. Well, it would have been if some UK cyclists hadn’t come by at the time and offered up a tube. They were on road bikes with “packs” rather than panniers. Fortunately, they were wild camping as given the time of day (late afternoon) I wouldn’t have thought they would get that far up the trail. I hope they didn’t have any punctures, as they only had another spare left.
There were no diversion signs (our Spanish wasn’t that good) that we saw. However, we managed to use the Garmin to still navigate back to the route a few miles later. The route was still mostly traffic free but meandered through a series of towns before arriving in San Sebastian proper. Koen spied a Trek bicycle shop, where he picked up some tubes and a repair kit.
It was now early evening and we had another good 20 miles or so, plus a series of hills to cycle over. Time to re-think. Koen had a tip and there was another campsite only 8 miles (13km) or so away. It was on the route, and one I would have chosen, but for some reason had not spotted it when planning.
There was some uphill to get out of San Sebastain. But about an hour or so later and at about 8pm we arrived at Camping Igara de San Sebastián. We were all pretty pooped, and, of course, there was a final uphill to reach the campsite.
There was a little precipitation in the air, so we put up the tents quickly. We had a choice of pitches – all very small, no more than 4m by 4m max for all our tents. So, tents were quite close, and not all guy lines were deployed.
Post shower, our minds turned to food and luckily the campsite had a restaurant. In we went, Kevin was already there making use of the wifi and having a pre-dinner drink. The food was well deserved and very tasty. The meal finished off by cheesecake (yes, my second for the day) which was almost three times the size of any portion you would get in the UK. I had to save some of it for “Mr Manners” but Kevin managed it all!
So, given we cut the day a bit short, the actual distance that day was 63 miles (101km) and 925m ascent.
Day 12 – San Sebastian to Lekeitio – (42.5 miles / 68k, 1230m ascent) – even though we had a very filling meal the night before, rather than just eating a banana and nuts, I felt I needed a little more fuel to start my day. So, I dug out my “Expedition Foods” dehydrated porridge. Boiled up some water, removed the special oxygen absorber sachet, poured in the water, stirred and sealed. Minutes later I had a lovely, creamy porridge breakfast. Recommended.
The tents were a little damp due to overnight rain, but no more time to dry them off, before we needed to set off. With no real warm up of the tired legs, given the 50 metres descent to the exit from the campsite, 50 metres along the road, we then had a 3.5 miles (5.5km) of climbing, gaining 350 metres. And there were some particularly steep bits. At the top we met some Aussie ride organisers who were waiting for their group of riders to show up. On this section we started to come across some El Camino walkers, the Camino being one of Spain’s long distance walking trails. Nine further miles (13km) later and we arrived into Zarautz.
Hidden away, we found a BM Supermaccdos, and stocked up on supplies. We set off and, it started to rain. It looked like it could be heavy so some of us donned our rain jackets. Onward we went but then dived off towards the promenade towards a café, well in fact La Perla Grill. The rain, at most, lasted for 15minutes, of which we were cycling for about 5 minutes before reaching the café. That was to be the only rain whilst we cycling, in the whole 16 days!
I don’t drink coffee and ordered a hot chocolate. The waiter brought me a glass of water and then the drink. It was super rich and think, and normally you have churros to dip in.
Then some sad news. Koen had decided he would not continue further with Ed, Kevin and me. Whilst he had kept up okay in France and was often in the lead, once we “hit” the hills, along with the fatigue of day after day of cycling he was simply starting to suffer too much.
He would rest, then make it back to San Sebastian and camp there. He could then rest, and see the end of a stage or cycle at his own pace to towns further to the East. Overall, this was a wise decision, and he managed to see the end of stages two and three and experience some great atmosphere.
For Ed, Kevin and me, it was simply onwards and Westwards. We stopped along the quayside at Zumaia for lunch, and then pushed on. The road took us away from the coast, before taking us right back and to some spectacular scenery. The road hugged the coast line and weaved in and out of the wind. There were few vehicles and it was a really a great afternoon’s ride.
At Deba, we were back at sea level, and took a little while finding the route across the shared pedestrian and cyclists bridge, before a short climb up again to the amazing scenery.
We had tried to book up a campsite for the evening, given the next day was the first of the 2023 Tour, and Lekeitio was very close to the route. We found Endai Kanpina was not open until the following day (familiar story, see article 2). We still took a look anyway as the campsite was enroute, it was closed. We then proceeded to the Leagi campsite. This was of course a climb of some 170 metres over about a mile or so. With the final 300m climb ascending at 21%.
Ed sensibly walked up, whilst Kevin and I weaved our way up stopping three times to catch up breath and let our heart rate slow down (I think if I had used my heart rate monitor I would have walked).
There was a restaurant at the site, and Kevin opted not to walk back down to the town. Ed and I walked down and had some great food along the Quayside at restaurant Oskarbi. We walked back up, Kevin was fast asleep. We learnt the following morning that he had to dig into his supplies as the restaurant was only serving drinks!!
….Next time, three days of the Tour, staying at an hotel, and officious locals.